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Hot Wine

You are now familiar with my morning routine, so I will fast forward to 10:00. Claudia and I reached our usual pick-up spot. Hassan was late today. He arrived after 20 minutes. He was in a queue at a gas station. He was trying to get gasoline, but many stations were asking for the new Lira rate. He had to find a station that would accept the old Lira rate. The Lebanese Lira is unstable and its rates change a few times a day. That’s the reason everyone gets excited about US dollars so they can exchange Lebanese Lira at a higher rate.

It takes 2 hours to get to Bcharre. It’s in Northern Lebanon and has snow-capped mountains. Bcharre wasn’t in my original plan. If I had used public transport then it would have been a day to visit Byblos and Batroun. I was lucky enough to meet Claudia and Hassan and that saved me an entire day and explored more places than I originally thought.

I couldn’t extend my booking at the hostel. It was December 29th and this popular hostel was fully booked. I called another popular hostel, Hamra Urban Garden, but they wanted me to pay upfront and book. I booked Hostel Colony Beirut for backup and unoccupied myself from thinking about my stay for tonight.

View of Mar Saba Cathedral

After an hour and a half, we started seeing snow-capped mountains and small towns spread across green areas. A beautiful Mar Saba Cathedral has stood tall since the medieval period.

Hassan asked if we wanted to stop and take photos. We spent a few minutes taking photos, then started driving for another 20 minutes. We arrived in a town with a restaurant built around a natural waterfall. The owner and staff were excited to see us. Despite not speaking English, they understood the order and showed me the best hospitality. There was nobody in this beautiful restaurant, but they did everything possible to set our table a few meters away from the waterfall. I ordered coffee and fries. They brought bread, dry fruits, and nuts with it. We could hear and feel the waterfall. I climbed up the stairs and took a photo with my coffee.

Somewhere in Bcharre

I wonder if I would get such nice hospitality in European countries. I love to travel in Asia, where I feel more welcome.

We left the restaurant and after a while we stopped at a church. After exploring the church and the area around it, we stopped at The Monastery of Qozhaya. A monastery located on the mountain with beautiful architecture. We spent 30 minutes in the monastery, bought packaged water, and took some good photos.

Monastery of Qozhaya

It was around 14:45 and we decided to visit the next stop, Lake Bnachei. It’s a big lake with restaurants and public places around it. It’s Christmas and New Year time, so we see a lot of couples with their kids, Tonga on the street, and Christmas trees and decorations made with plastic bottles and caps. We enjoyed the cold breeze and vibe at Lake Bnachei. Hassan suggested that he could take us to Batroun. I had a local contact, Karelle, in Batroun and I planned to meet her tomorrow. Claudia didn’t have any plans to visit Batroun so we decided to explore Batroun. Claudia and I have been traveling together for the last two days and this is our third day and last full trip together.

Tonga ride at Lake Bnachei

We stopped at a restaurant before we went to Batroun. We were hungry, so Hassan stopped at a fancy restaurant. I asked for Tabbouleh and Claudia ordered a beef dish. The server was speaking English and gave me a complimentary Ayran.

We reached Batroun and found it to be mesmerizing with the hustling-bustling of people, lights, Christmas decor, and stalls selling hot wine everywhere.

I never knew that hot wine was a thing. Claudia and I settled on the stairs of the market and sipped our hot wine. An Indian solo traveler with a Colombian solo traveler in a small town in Lebanon drinking hot wine and appreciating Christmas.

Batroun bazaar
I enjoyed my three days with Claudia and Hassan. I couldn't get a hostel, so I asked Hassan to take me to Hostel Colony Beirut. Claudia commented that I found the hostel in a ghetto. The area was indeed different from downtown and you will see local people and kids playing around. It is located near to Karantina government hospital. There was a military station and abandoned tanks, too.

It was dark, and I followed my map to reach the hostel. I didn’t know that Lebanon had a door code system. As I was new to the hostel, I didn’t get the door code. I somehow managed to drive attention and the door automatically opened. I went upstairs, followed the sign, and finally checked in.

Attractions of the day:

  1. Deir Qozhaya
  2. Deir El Qamar
  3. Beit ed-Dine
  4. Lake Bnachei
  5. Batroun Christmas market